Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Pitman arm nut removal
| Pitman arm nut removal [message #301115] |
Wed, 25 May 2016 20:54  |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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End game is put in a steering box. One night remove three power steering hoses. Today take hoses to get new ones made (especially that hard line that bound at the nut near pump and torqued the line shut). Budge four bolts to frame, they move. Check BIG nut before remove from frame. Er. 1 1/4 impact socket won't go on. With hammer style encouragement, won't go on (I was hoping it was just dirty, ha).
So, short of going out tomorrow and buying a 1 5/16 impact socket, what can the driveway mechanic do/try? The monster crescent wrench with sledge hammer was attempted without much vigor - I didn't like the thought of driving that much unfocused one way power through the system. And guessing phase two of this purchase, what are the suggestions if my cheap air impact wrench won't turn it even with correct socket?
Other end of same piece of steel: if I need to remove the drag link from the pitman arm, how to separate those two without tearing up joint. Pickle forks always leave a mess when I have used them.
Thoughts, suggestions and commiseration welcome. Thanks
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pitman arm nut removal [message #301116 is a reply to message #301115] |
Wed, 25 May 2016 21:02  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Well, if you are going to run with the big dogs.... Call friends who might
have the socket, check with auto zone for loner tools, bite the bullet and
buy it and the tie rod removal tool.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403.
On May 25, 2016 6:55 PM, "Tyler" wrote:
> End game is put in a steering box. One night remove three power steering
> hoses. Today take hoses to get new ones made (especially that hard line that
> bound at the nut near pump and torqued the line shut). Budge four bolts to
> frame, they move. Check BIG nut before remove from frame. Er. 1 1/4 impact
> socket won't go on. With hammer style encouragement, won't go on (I was
> hoping it was just dirty, ha).
>
> So, short of going out tomorrow and buying a 1 5/16 impact socket, what
> can the driveway mechanic do/try? The monster crescent wrench with sledge
> hammer was attempted without much vigor - I didn't like the thought of
> driving that much unfocused one way power through the system. And guessing
> phase two of this purchase, what are the suggestions if my cheap air
> impact wrench won't turn it even with correct socket?
>
> Other end of same piece of steel: if I need to remove the drag link from
> the pitman arm, how to separate those two without tearing up joint. Pickle
> forks always leave a mess when I have used them.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions and commiseration welcome. Thanks
> --
> 1975 Glenbrook
> Raleigh, NC
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pitman arm nut removal [message #301117 is a reply to message #301115] |
Wed, 25 May 2016 22:08 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Chris,
I copied this out of Maintenance Manual X-7525 for you.
STEERING GEAR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the power steering hoses from the
steering gear and cap the hose fittings.
2. Remove the pitman arm shaft nut. Mark the
relation of the pitman arm to the pitman shaft.
Disconnect the pitman arm from the pitman shaft using
tool number J-24319 or similar puller.
3. Loosen steering shaft yoke cinch bolt.
4. Remove the four bolts attaching the gear to the
frame side rail, permit the steering shaft yoke to slide
free of the steering gear stub shaft and remove the
gear.
STEERING GEAR INSTALLATION
See CAUTION on page 9-1 of this section.
CAUTION: All steering linkage fasteners are important attaching parts in that
they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or
could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with one of the same
part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do
not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values
must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these
parts.
1. Before installing the steering gear, apply a
sodium soap fine fiber grease to the gear mounting
pads to prevent squeaks between the gear housing
and the frame. Make certain there is a minimum of
.040" clearance between coupling yoke and steering
gear upper seal.
2. Be sure the steering wheel is properly aligned
in relation to the wheels, and tighten the yoke cinch
bolt to 30 foot pounds. Tighten the steering gear to
frame bolts to 70 foot pounds.
3. Install pitman arm on steering gear, secure
with nut torqued to 160-210 foot-pounds.
4. Connect fluid pressure lines and bleed system.
(Refer to ADJUSTMENTS under POWER
STEERING PUMP earlier in this section).
BLEEDING POWER STEERING SYSTEMS
When a power steering pump or gear has been
installed, the air that has entered the system must be
bled out before the vehicle is again operated. If air is
allowed to remain in the power steering fluid system,
noisy and unsatisfactory operation of the system will
result. Bleed air from the hydraulic system as follows:
NOTE: Add only new power steering fluid (GM
1050017 or equivalent) to power steering sys
tem.
1. Fill oil reservoir to proper level and let oil
remain undisturbed for at least two minutes.
2. Start engine and run momentarily.
3. Add oil if necessary.
4. Repeat above procedure until oil level remains
constant after running engine.
5. Raise front end of vehicle so that wheels are off
the ground.
6. Turn the wheels (off ground) right and left,
lightly contacting the wheel stops.
7. Add oil if necessary.
8. Lower the vehicle and turn wheels right and
left on the ground.
9. Check oil level and refill as required.
10. If oil is extremely foamy, allow vehicle to
stand a few minutes with engine off and repeat above
procedure.
11. The presence of trapped air in the system will
cause the fluid level in the pump to rise when the
engine is turned off. Continue to bleed system until
this condition no longer occurs.
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Tyler
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:55 AM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Pitman arm nut removal
End game is put in a steering box. One night remove three power steering hoses. Today take hoses to get new ones made (especially
that hard line that
bound at the nut near pump and torqued the line shut). Budge four bolts to frame, they move. Check BIG nut before remove from frame.
Er. 1 1/4 impact
socket won't go on. With hammer style encouragement, won't go on (I was hoping it was just dirty, ha).
So, short of going out tomorrow and buying a 1 5/16 impact socket, what can the driveway mechanic do/try? The monster crescent
wrench with sledge
hammer was attempted without much vigor - I didn't like the thought of driving that much unfocused one way power through the system.
And guessing
phase two of this purchase, what are the suggestions if my cheap air impact wrench won't turn it even with correct socket?
Other end of same piece of steel: if I need to remove the drag link from the pitman arm, how to separate those two without tearing
up joint. Pickle
forks always leave a mess when I have used them.
Thoughts, suggestions and commiseration welcome. Thanks
--
1975 Glenbrook
Raleigh, NC
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: Pitman arm nut removal [message #301118 is a reply to message #301115] |
Wed, 25 May 2016 23:48 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Northern tool has the large wrenches for a decent price. If you get a combination (open-end and box)wrench you can increase your leverage with another large combo wrench as long as you can get the box end on the pitman nut. It will also help your steering wheel lock and your resultant torque if you have someone hold the steering wheel while you twist that nut.
I do not recommend using the impact anywhere on the steering shaft when the system is connected to the steering wheel and those CV-type joints and especially the slip joints. They(steering shaft assemblies and steering gears)will withstand all the torque you can put on them by hand, but the hammering of the impact can get absorbed by those joints and internal parts which can be detrimental to their continued functionality.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pitman arm nut removal [message #301128 is a reply to message #301118] |
Thu, 26 May 2016 08:33 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Terry,
AW S#!T
I just helped Scott Nutter replace his steering gear box and we couldn't get the Pittman arm nut to loosen even with a 2 foot
breaker bar so I handed him my Harbor Freight 3/4" impact wrench (puts out 1000 ft lb) and he hit the trigger and it was off in a
heartbeat. He noted he didn't even feel the impact wrench torque at all. It is a very heavy tool so its mass is probably why it
didn't torque.
The good news is that along with the box we replaced the lower steering shaft as well.
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 2:48 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Pitman arm nut removal
Northern tool has the large wrenches for a decent price. If you get a combination (open-end and box)wrench you can increase your
leverage with another large combo wrench as long as you can get the box end on the pitman nut. It will also help your steering wheel
lock and your resultant torque if you have someone hold the steering wheel while you twist that nut.
I do not recommend using the impact anywhere on the steering shaft when the system is connected to the steering wheel and those
CV-type joints and especially the slip joints. They(steering shaft assemblies and steering gears)will withstand all the torque you
can put on them by hand, but the hammering of the impact can get absorbed by those joints and internal parts which can be
detrimental to their continued functionality.
--
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: Pitman arm nut removal [message #301172 is a reply to message #301115] |
Thu, 26 May 2016 22:43 |
Tilerpep
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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And a day four will be required...! Hit the loaner tools at Autozone. 33 mm axle nut socket and impact wrench literal one hit and nut was off. Drag link connection had to come off because pitman arm would not come off shaft. Quite a bang for drag link - it was resisting and I just protected my face behind the bumper and kept turning the breaker bar! Removed box and took to a shop. He hit the pitman arm five extended times with shop impact through a puller way better than I had rented. No love. He torqued it down, sprayed with that freezy type penetrating oil, let it sit, then started giving it some hammer time. Pop.
So, I come home and start to put it all back together. Hand tight every connection till high pressure at pump just won't settle. Yep, my new custom hose has the same fitting both ends, supposed to be smaller at pump. Frustrating as this is, I'm in my own driveway with beautiful weather replacing what might be forty year old rubber. Better here than side of road. And I'm hopeful the steering feel will bump positive, I can feel the slop in the old by hand with it out. And putting in a 3.3 turn box and taking out a 4 turn, should tighten even more.
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pitman arm nut removal [message #301218 is a reply to message #301209] |
Fri, 27 May 2016 22:34 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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On center??? Were I faced with using an impact wrench to remove a pitman
arm nut, I"d turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, so that the
entire steering system would be "grounded" in the CCW direction. That way
the impacts from the wrench would be passed through as few "delicate" parts
as possible. After the nut's broken loose, then return the steering to
center.
JWID,
Ken H.
On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 10:18 PM, John R. Lebetski
wrote:
> Be sure it's on center--- of course.
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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