I'm working on a 75-76 solair furnace. Problem points to a bad flame Rod. Any one have a source for a replacement? Furnace works with a blue flame but flame Rod will not make to keep it running. I can get the rod to make on the bench with a propane torch. I need to get the digital temp sensor out and see at what temp it makes? Old one has F 220 on it. I can touch the wires to make contact and furnace keeps running.

I don't know what you mean by a "flame rid".

Could you mean a thermocouple. That is a rod connected to wires. When in a flame it heats up and puts an electrical current out which keeps the pilot light valve open. If the pilot light goes out it will cool and shut off the gas.

The thermo couple will often go bad and it is easy to replace it. This will allow the game valve to work.

I can send you a odd copy of the Solaire furnace manual if you need it

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

> On Oct 13, 2015, at 11:54 AM, Charles Boyd wrote:
>
> I'm working on a 75-76 solair furnace. Problem points to a bad flame Rod. Any one have a source for a replacement? Furnace works with a blue flame
> but flame Rod will not make to keep it running. I can get the rod to make on the bench with a propane torch. I need to get the digital temp sensor
> out and see at what temp it makes? Old one has F 220 on it. I can touch the wires to make contact and furnace keeps running.
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
>

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Emery, I have the manual, thanks, the book calls it a flame rod. It is either NO or closed. F220* is on it. I rigged up a thermometer clamped to the Rod in a vise with a VOM on it and using a cig lighter both rods It will close at 220*. power comes in thru the fuse to a reset switch that is suppose to trip if the flame Rod does not close in 35-45 seconds which opens a relay which bypasses the reset switch. Mine times to 28 seconds. I did once hold the button long enough for it to stay on once and it ran the fan till cool off. It was longer than 60 seconds till it got hot enough to close flame rod. If the flame Rod is closed and working as it should when the thermostat is satisfied it cuts the burner off and starts to cool but the blower stays on till the flame rod cools below 220*. It is kinda looking like a dirty wore out burner not getting hot enough quick enough. The flame is full blue, if I adjust flame adjuster to the right it howells, if I adjust it to the left I can go past blue to yellow. But when blue I don't see sharp spikes just full blue. At least it isn't kicking the CO detector like the other one.



emerystora wrote on Tue, 13 October 2015 14:30

I don't know what you mean by a "flame rid".

Could you mean a thermocouple. That is a rod connected to wires. When in a flame it heats up and puts an electrical current out which keeps the pilot light valve open. If the pilot light goes out it will cool and shut off the gas.

The thermo couple will often go bad and it is easy to replace it. This will allow the game valve to work.

I can send you a odd copy of the Solaire furnace manual if you need it

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

> On Oct 13, 2015, at 11:54 AM, Charles Boyd wrote:
>
> I'm working on a 75-76 solair furnace. Problem points to a bad flame Rod. Any one have a source for a replacement? Furnace works with a blue flame
> but flame Rod will not make to keep it running. I can get the rod to make on the bench with a propane torch. I need to get the digital temp sensor
> out and see at what temp it makes? Old one has F 220 on it. I can touch the wires to make contact and furnace keeps running.
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
>

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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

...if I adjust flame adjuster to the right it howls, if I adjust it to the left I can go past blue to yellow. But when blue I don't see sharp spikes just full blue. At least it isn't kicking the CO detector like the other one.

If you do not get what you want, call John Richardson. A few years back he had someone in Wisconsin had had all kinds of parts.

C Boyd wrote on Tue, 13 October 2015 16:08

...if I adjust flame adjuster to the right it howls, if I adjust it to the left I can go past blue to yellow. But when blue I don't see sharp spikes just full blue. At least it isn't kicking the CO detector like the other one.

These symptoms discussed in a previous thread suggest the propane regulator pressure needs to be adjusted.