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[GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269417] Sun, 11 January 2015 16:35 Go to next message
Daniel DeLuca is currently offline  Daniel DeLuca   United States
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Registered: June 2014
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Senior Member
Hello,

I thought some easy winter maintenance would be fixing up the body pads on the coach. Most of my pads are still there, but i have read that replacing the 1/4 inch pads on the 78 is a worthwhile little upgrade. I bought a 1/2 inch horse stall matt to make some new pads. However after loosening the 4 brackets that hold the body down, I still could only create about a 1/4 inch worth of gap when jacking up the crossmember (for lack of a better term). There was no way I was getting a 1/2 inch pad in there. Am I missing something? Or should I just find some 1/4 inch pads and only replace the ones that are missing?

Dan
78 Eleganza
Allentown, NJ

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Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269418 is a reply to message #269417] Sun, 11 January 2015 16:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Otterwan   United States
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Registered: July 2013
Location: Lynnwood (north of Seattl...
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Here you go. Scroll down the page a bit for 4 links with all the information you could ever need regarding installing body pads

http://www.bdub.net/curtis-unlimited/index.html



1977 Birchaven, Lynnwood WA - "We may not be able to stop all evil in the world, but I know that how we treat one another is entirely up to us."
Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269420 is a reply to message #269418] Sun, 11 January 2015 17:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Daniel DeLuca is currently offline  Daniel DeLuca   United States
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Registered: June 2014
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Thank you, I did not see Bruce’s write up earlier. You need to put the coach up on stands to take the weight off the suspension. Not the quick and easy project I hoped for. Oh well.
> On Jan 11, 2015, at 5:45 PM, David Orders wrote:
>
> Here you go. Scroll down the page a bit for 4 links with all the information you could ever need regarding installing body pads
>
> http://www.bdub.net/curtis-unlimited/index.html
>
>
> --
> 1976 Royale "Twinkie II" Lynnwood WA - "We may not be able to stop all evil in the world, but I know that how we treat one another is entirely up to
> us."
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Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269421 is a reply to message #269417] Sun, 11 January 2015 17:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
RF_Burns is currently offline  RF_Burns   Canada
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Dan,
When I did mine (thin pads), I read the posts and instructions saying all you had to do was remove the 4 tie-downs and jack up each cross member and stick them in. Well that didn't work so well... the frame just followed the body upwards! I re-read and did it again.. then I heard a BANG! Well I suspect either a weld on the body frame broke or the glue holding the side panels broke. In any case I now had waves in the side panels (upper and lower) and cracks in the seam paint.

Anyway.. it occurred to me that the suspension was going to push the frame upwards against the body (unless the body bends first).
So I jacked up the frame and set floor stands so the front wheels were off the ground and released the rear air bags. I also tried to loosen the 4 corner pads, but the large bolts were seized, so I removed the nuts holding the corner pad mounting plates to the frame. Now I could lift the body away from the frame. I also used 3 jacks (front, middle and back) and lifted one side at once enough to slide in the pads.

Read my instructions from the Curtis site listed above.

JWID



Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269426 is a reply to message #269421] Sun, 11 January 2015 18:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Daniel DeLuca is currently offline  Daniel DeLuca   United States
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Bruce,

Glad I did not push the issue! Think i might just replace the missing thin pads for now. Next time I put the coach up I will do the job proper.

Dan


> On Jan 11, 2015, at 6:26 PM, Bruce Hislop wrote:
>
> Dan,
> When I did mine (thin pads), I read the posts and instructions saying all you had to do was remove the 4 tie-downs and jack up each cross member and
> stick them in. Well that didn't work so well... the frame just followed the body upwards! I re-read and did it again.. then I heard a BANG! Well I
> suspect either a weld on the body frame broke or the glue holding the side panels broke. In any case I now had waves in the side panels (upper and
> lower) and cracks in the seam paint.
>
> Anyway.. it occurred to me that the suspension was going to push the frame upwards against the body (unless the body bends first).
> So I jacked up the frame and set floor stands so the front wheels were off the ground and released the rear air bags. I also tried to loosen the 4
> corner pads, but the large bolts were seized, so I removed the nuts holding the corner pad mounting plates to the frame. Now I could lift the body
> away from the frame. I also used 3 jacks (front, middle and back) and lifted one side at once enough to slide in the pads.
>
> Read my instructions from the Curtis site listed above.
>
> JWID
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
> Hubler 1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269438 is a reply to message #269426] Mon, 12 January 2015 05:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jim at the Co-op is currently offline  Jim at the Co-op   United States
Messages: 291
Registered: May 2014
Location: Orlando Florida
Karma: 2
Senior Member
We always install 1/2" body pads all around. Just put a bottle jack where
you want to put the pad in. Jack it up right on the aluminum crossmember,
it will flex enough right where the pad is to go in (one goes in every time
an aluminum crossmember crosses the front to back "C" channel ladder
frame. We actually leave the outriggers bolted and just push up and
flex where the pad is supposed to go. Adding a full 1/2" gap does so many
things to relieve stress on fuel, air, brake and LP lines on later model
coachesespecially. If you get fuel system work here you will also get body
pads.

Hope this helps,

Jim Bounds
-----------------------------

On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 7:17 PM, Daniel DeLuca wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> Glad I did not push the issue! Think i might just replace the missing
> thin pads for now. Next time I put the coach up I will do the job proper.
>
> Dan
>
>
>> On Jan 11, 2015, at 6:26 PM, Bruce Hislop wrote:
>>
>> Dan,
>> When I did mine (thin pads), I read the posts and instructions saying
> all you had to do was remove the 4 tie-downs and jack up each cross member
> and
>> stick them in. Well that didn't work so well... the frame just followed
> the body upwards! I re-read and did it again.. then I heard a BANG! Well I
>> suspect either a weld on the body frame broke or the glue holding the
> side panels broke. In any case I now had waves in the side panels (upper and
>> lower) and cracks in the seam paint.
>>
>> Anyway.. it occurred to me that the suspension was going to push the
> frame upwards against the body (unless the body bends first).
>> So I jacked up the frame and set floor stands so the front wheels were
> off the ground and released the rear air bags. I also tried to loosen the 4
>> corner pads, but the large bolts were seized, so I removed the nuts
> holding the corner pad mounting plates to the frame. Now I could lift the
> body
>> away from the frame. I also used 3 jacks (front, middle and back) and
> lifted one side at once enough to slide in the pads.
>>
>> Read my instructions from the Curtis site listed above.
>>
>> JWID
>>
>>
>> --
>> Bruce Hislop
>> ON Canada
>> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
>> Hubler 1 ton front end
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
>> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269441 is a reply to message #269438] Mon, 12 January 2015 06:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
Senior Member
Jim,

It has been reported here if one unbolts the "outriggers" on either side of the engine hatch you can gain clearance between the
engine hatch and the air cleaner. Obviously one has to install something in the gap created in the "outriggers."

Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bounds

We always install 1/2" body pads all around. Just put a bottle jack where
you want to put the pad in. Jack it up right on the aluminum crossmember,
it will flex enough right where the pad is to go in (one goes in every time
an aluminum crossmember crosses the front to back "C" channel ladder
frame. We actually leave the outriggers bolted and just push up and
flex where the pad is supposed to go. Adding a full 1/2" gap does so many
things to relieve stress on fuel, air, brake and LP lines on later model
coachesespecially. If you get fuel system work here you will also get body
pads.

Hope this helps,

Jim Bounds


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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269442 is a reply to message #269441] Mon, 12 January 2015 06:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Daniel DeLuca is currently offline  Daniel DeLuca   United States
Messages: 120
Registered: June 2014
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Senior Member
Jim,

Do you find the frame following the crossmember up like Bruce reported. That was also my experience, no way I was squeezing a 1/2 inch pad in there, but I only jacked it up 4 inches or so. Perhaps I just needed to be braver on the aggressive jacking. I had an original 1/4 pad that had fallen out and it essentially had to be hammered in.

Dan


> On Jan 12, 2015, at 7:10 AM, Robert Mueller wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> It has been reported here if one unbolts the "outriggers" on either side of the engine hatch you can gain clearance between the
> engine hatch and the air cleaner. Obviously one has to install something in the gap created in the "outriggers."
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Bounds
>
> We always install 1/2" body pads all around. Just put a bottle jack where
> you want to put the pad in. Jack it up right on the aluminum crossmember,
> it will flex enough right where the pad is to go in (one goes in every time
> an aluminum crossmember crosses the front to back "C" channel ladder
> frame. We actually leave the outriggers bolted and just push up and
> flex where the pad is supposed to go. Adding a full 1/2" gap does so many
> things to relieve stress on fuel, air, brake and LP lines on later model
> coachesespecially. If you get fuel system work here you will also get body
> pads.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Jim Bounds
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269450 is a reply to message #269442] Mon, 12 January 2015 09:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jp Benson is currently offline  Jp Benson   United States
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Location: Fla
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Senior Member
So what exactly is an "outrigger"? Does it mean the shock isolators at the front and rear of the coach? Or does it mean the four tie-down clamps bolted to the floorboards?

I installed shock isolators that require 7/8" spacers (3/8" more than original). Then used 7/8" body pads to match. There is now ~1/4" space from the top of the air cleaner to the bottom of the engine cover. Enough that it won't require an air cleaner cutout on my replacement engine cover.

Those who have Ragusa steps should be aware that it is in effect another tie-down clamp and may need adjustment when the body pads are changed.

JP
Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269464 is a reply to message #269417] Mon, 12 January 2015 11:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
RF_Burns is currently offline  RF_Burns   Canada
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Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma: 3
Senior Member
Dan,
I doubt I reached 3" before I heard the "BANG".

Just saying my experience...


Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269491 is a reply to message #269417] Mon, 12 January 2015 13:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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Senior Member
We replaced all our pads with 3/8 pads. We did it when we had all the wheels off with the frame completely supported by blocks. That way when you jack up at the aluminum cross members the frame isn't being pushed up along with the rest of the coach body by the wheels, shocks and whatever else is there. Basically, the frame has to be total dead weight so you can separate it from the aluminum body when you jack up each cross member. We had no problem separating the frame from the body except that it got harder the closer we got to the front of the coach. We did not remove or loosen the 4 bolts holding the frame to the body.

Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269499 is a reply to message #269491] Mon, 12 January 2015 16:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jim at the Co-op is currently offline  Jim at the Co-op   United States
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Senior Member
We have installed countless of our 1/2" body pad sets for $50. Do not need
to mess with the outriggers, the body will flex right where you put the
pads one at a time. Any more than 1/2 (3/4") and you run into issues with
the holding tank toilet flange and the lower grill valence support. You
could take all that apart and go higher which I have done (did 1") but 1/2
has not caused troubles and improves not only the gap so many things don't
get pinched but it also greatly reduces transmitted vibration as a side
effect. I appreciate and have fun batting ideas back and forth but this
wheel has been invented brothers, it works and for $50 you can have a set
too.

Jim Bounds
--------------------------

On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 2:33 PM, Mickey Szilagyi
wrote:

> We replaced all our pads with 3/8 pads. We did it when we had all the
> wheels off with the frame completely supported by blocks. That way when you
> jack up at the aluminum cross members the frame isn't being pushed up
> along with the rest of the coach body by the wheels, shocks and whatever
> else is
> there. Basically, the frame has to be total dead weight so you can
> separate it from the aluminum body when you jack up each cross member. We
> had no
> problem separating the frame from the body except that it got harder the
> closer we got to the front of the coach. We did not remove or loosen the 4
> bolts holding the frame to the body.
> --
> Mickey
> 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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Re: [GMCnet] Bodypads on a 78' [message #269500 is a reply to message #269417] Mon, 12 January 2015 16:19 Go to previous message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
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Senior Member
What JB said. Worked great on The Pig

Todd Sullivan

Sully
77 royale
Seattle

> On Jan 12, 2015, at 2:15 PM, Jim Bounds wrote:
>
> We have installed countless of our 1/2" body pad sets for $50. Do not need
> to mess with the outriggers, the body will flex right where you put the
> pads one at a time. Any more than 1/2 (3/4") and you run into issues with
> the holding tank toilet flange and the lower grill valence support. You
> could take all that apart and go higher which I have done (did 1") but 1/2
> has not caused troubles and improves not only the gap so many things don't
> get pinched but it also greatly reduces transmitted vibration as a side
> effect. I appreciate and have fun batting ideas back and forth but this
> wheel has been invented brothers, it works and for $50 you can have a set
> too.
>
> Jim Bounds
> --------------------------
>
> On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 2:33 PM, Mickey Szilagyi
> wrote:
>
>> We replaced all our pads with 3/8 pads. We did it when we had all the
>> wheels off with the frame completely supported by blocks. That way when you
>> jack up at the aluminum cross members the frame isn't being pushed up
>> along with the rest of the coach body by the wheels, shocks and whatever
>> else is
>> there. Basically, the frame has to be total dead weight so you can
>> separate it from the aluminum body when you jack up each cross member. We
>> had no
>> problem separating the frame from the body except that it got harder the
>> closer we got to the front of the coach. We did not remove or loosen the 4
>> bolts holding the frame to the body.
>> --
>> Mickey
>> 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
>> _______________________________________________
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
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