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| [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162802] |
Mon, 12 March 2012 21:11  |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Well, I flunked crank-'er-up today. I'd sort of thought I'd get the
plumbing and wiring finished today in time to start the engine.
Didn't happen. As usual, things took a lot longer than I'd expected,
and I took off on tangents.
For example, It probably took me 1-1/2 hours to reconnect the
transmission cooler lines to the transmission. When I installed the
Cad, I re-routed those lines to the right side. They came out with
the drive train, but were a slight problem, so I didn't remount them
before installing the engine. Big mistake. Just couldn't get them
aligned for a long time.
Then, I decided to try to cure the relatively minor exhaust pipe leaks
at the manifold connections:
Gary Kosier sent me new "bell mouths" to replace my poor locally
produced ones. A couple of days ago I was discussing that plan with
my young car nut plumber. He suggest that I machine the manifolds to
accept the commonly available flanged "donuts", of which I have a bag
full. Since the manifolds are still on the engine with good Remflex
gaskets, I don't want to remove them. But, the right side has an
adapter from the flat manifold to the bell mouth fitting for the
exhaust pipe -- it was originally a heat riser valve. So, what I did
was machine the bell mouth side of that small adapter to accept a
donut. With that done, I think I achieved a good, spring loaded,
connection.
On the left side, I found that the exhaust pipe's bell mouth is
really pretty good -- but the studs on the manifold have integral
nuts, which did not allow the clamp to seat firmly around the bell
mouth -- I missed that when I originally installed the engine. After
replacing those studs with some made from 3/8-16 all-thread, I seem to
have a good connection there.
MAYBE, I'll avoid having to cut & weld Gary's new ends on the
exhaust pipes.
Then, since I'd lost a lot of ATF from the torque converter and the
chain cover while correcting the pump bushing problem, I decided to
remove the pan and try to stop the seeping from its cork gasket.
After draining the ATF down to the temperature sender bung, I removed
the last two bolts. But I didn't have my hand in the right position
when the gasket finally let go -- it toppled off of my hand and dumped
2-3 quarts of ATF on the floor, via my left arm. :-( There went one
more big bag of OilDry. And came another big splotch on my
not-that-old concrete floor. Wherefore art thou, oh long-delayed
floor epoxy?
Tomorrow SHOULD see the top-side wiring and plumbing completed and the
engine started. Y'all keep your fingers crossed for me!
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162810 is a reply to message #162802] |
Mon, 12 March 2012 21:51  |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
A lot of us will be with you in spirit tomorrow as you crank it up.
Thanks for the regular updates -- the detail which you share is really appreciated.
Dennis
| Ken Henderson wrote on Mon, 12 March 2012 21:11 |
Well, I flunked crank-'er-up today. I'd sort of thought I'd get the
plumbing and wiring finished today in time to start the engine.
Didn't happen. As usual, things took a lot longer than I'd expected,
and I took off on tangents.
For example, It probably took me 1-1/2 hours to reconnect the
transmission cooler lines to the transmission. When I installed the
Cad, I re-routed those lines to the right side. They came out with
the drive train, but were a slight problem, so I didn't remount them
before installing the engine. Big mistake. Just couldn't get them
aligned for a long time.
Then, I decided to try to cure the relatively minor exhaust pipe leaks
at the manifold connections:
Gary Kosier sent me new "bell mouths" to replace my poor locally
produced ones. A couple of days ago I was discussing that plan with
my young car nut plumber. He suggest that I machine the manifolds to
accept the commonly available flanged "donuts", of which I have a bag
full. Since the manifolds are still on the engine with good Remflex
gaskets, I don't want to remove them. But, the right side has an
adapter from the flat manifold to the bell mouth fitting for the
exhaust pipe -- it was originally a heat riser valve. So, what I did
was machine the bell mouth side of that small adapter to accept a
donut. With that done, I think I achieved a good, spring loaded,
connection.
snip snip ....
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
|
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162813 is a reply to message #162802] |
Mon, 12 March 2012 22:05 |
Kosier
Messages: 834
Registered: February 2008
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
As you get closer to my age, you're acquiring my work habits.
Gary Kosier
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Henderson" <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
To: "gmclist" <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2012 10:11 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500
> Well, I flunked crank-'er-up today. I'd sort of thought I'd
> get the
> plumbing and wiring finished today in time to start the engine.
> Didn't happen. As usual, things took a lot longer than I'd
> expected,
> and I took off on tangents.
>
> For example, It probably took me 1-1/2 hours to reconnect the
> transmission cooler lines to the transmission. When I
> installed the
> Cad, I re-routed those lines to the right side. They came out
> with
> the drive train, but were a slight problem, so I didn't remount
> them
> before installing the engine. Big mistake. Just couldn't get
> them
> aligned for a long time.
>
> Then, I decided to try to cure the relatively minor exhaust
> pipe leaks
> at the manifold connections:
>
> Gary Kosier sent me new "bell mouths" to replace my poor
> locally
> produced ones. A couple of days ago I was discussing that plan
> with
> my young car nut plumber. He suggest that I machine the
> manifolds to
> accept the commonly available flanged "donuts", of which I have
> a bag
> full. Since the manifolds are still on the engine with good
> Remflex
> gaskets, I don't want to remove them. But, the right side has
> an
> adapter from the flat manifold to the bell mouth fitting for
> the
> exhaust pipe -- it was originally a heat riser valve. So, what
> I did
> was machine the bell mouth side of that small adapter to accept
> a
> donut. With that done, I think I achieved a good, spring
> loaded,
> connection.
>
> On the left side, I found that the exhaust pipe's bell
> mouth is
> really pretty good -- but the studs on the manifold have
> integral
> nuts, which did not allow the clamp to seat firmly around the
> bell
> mouth -- I missed that when I originally installed the engine.
> After
> replacing those studs with some made from 3/8-16 all-thread, I
> seem to
> have a good connection there.
>
> MAYBE, I'll avoid having to cut & weld Gary's new ends on
> the
> exhaust pipes.
>
> Then, since I'd lost a lot of ATF from the torque converter and
> the
> chain cover while correcting the pump bushing problem, I
> decided to
> remove the pan and try to stop the seeping from its cork
> gasket.
> After draining the ATF down to the temperature sender bung, I
> removed
> the last two bolts. But I didn't have my hand in the right
> position
> when the gasket finally let go -- it toppled off of my hand and
> dumped
> 2-3 quarts of ATF on the floor, via my left arm. :-( There
> went one
> more big bag of OilDry. And came another big splotch on my
> not-that-old concrete floor. Wherefore art thou, oh
> long-delayed
> floor epoxy?
>
> Tomorrow SHOULD see the top-side wiring and plumbing completed
> and the
> engine started. Y'all keep your fingers crossed for me!
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162825 is a reply to message #162802] |
Mon, 12 March 2012 23:42 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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I fumbled my trans pan late last week as well. I pulled it to replace the shift shaft o ring. Thought I had it nailed as I strategically removed bolts and left a rear one to hold the pan at a good angle when I popped the seal to let it drain. Everything was groovy until I Chevy chased the pan after removing the last bolt. Wish I had a drain plug bung handy to weld in prior to puting the pan back on.
Sully
77 royale
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
Sender: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2012 22:11:47
To: gmclist<gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Reply-To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500
Well, I flunked crank-'er-up today. I'd sort of thought I'd get the
plumbing and wiring finished today in time to start the engine.
Didn't happen. As usual, things took a lot longer than I'd expected,
and I took off on tangents.
For example, It probably took me 1-1/2 hours to reconnect the
transmission cooler lines to the transmission. When I installed the
Cad, I re-routed those lines to the right side. They came out with
the drive train, but were a slight problem, so I didn't remount them
before installing the engine. Big mistake. Just couldn't get them
aligned for a long time.
Then, I decided to try to cure the relatively minor exhaust pipe leaks
at the manifold connections:
Gary Kosier sent me new "bell mouths" to replace my poor locally
produced ones. A couple of days ago I was discussing that plan with
my young car nut plumber. He suggest that I machine the manifolds to
accept the commonly available flanged "donuts", of which I have a bag
full. Since the manifolds are still on the engine with good Remflex
gaskets, I don't want to remove them. But, the right side has an
adapter from the flat manifold to the bell mouth fitting for the
exhaust pipe -- it was originally a heat riser valve. So, what I did
was machine the bell mouth side of that small adapter to accept a
donut. With that done, I think I achieved a good, spring loaded,
connection.
On the left side, I found that the exhaust pipe's bell mouth is
really pretty good -- but the studs on the manifold have integral
nuts, which did not allow the clamp to seat firmly around the bell
mouth -- I missed that when I originally installed the engine. After
replacing those studs with some made from 3/8-16 all-thread, I seem to
have a good connection there.
MAYBE, I'll avoid having to cut & weld Gary's new ends on the
exhaust pipes.
Then, since I'd lost a lot of ATF from the torque converter and the
chain cover while correcting the pump bushing problem, I decided to
remove the pan and try to stop the seeping from its cork gasket.
After draining the ATF down to the temperature sender bung, I removed
the last two bolts. But I didn't have my hand in the right position
when the gasket finally let go -- it toppled off of my hand and dumped
2-3 quarts of ATF on the floor, via my left arm. :-( There went one
more big bag of OilDry. And came another big splotch on my
not-that-old concrete floor. Wherefore art thou, oh long-delayed
floor epoxy?
Tomorrow SHOULD see the top-side wiring and plumbing completed and the
engine started. Y'all keep your fingers crossed for me!
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162842 is a reply to message #162825] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 07:08 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Sully,
I WOULD NOT reinstall a transmission pan without installing a drain
bung. Don't have one handy? I've never bought one. Just get a nut
to fit the drain plug and turn a step on it. Drill a hole in the
pan the side of the step and braze the nut in place.
Without a drain plug, it's impossible, IMHO, to avoid a red shower.
Ken H.
On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 12:42 AM, wrote:
> ...Wish I had a drain plug bung handy to weld in prior to puting the pan back on.
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162846 is a reply to message #162810] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 07:44 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
|
Senior Member |
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I second the sentiment. And I'm reminded of many VW falt motor first starts. Fill the carb with gas and spin it. Almost always, an instant click and chuckle from a happy volkswagen. If not, go ahead and haul it out, cos I did something wrong.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: Dennis Sexton <dennisfsexton@aol.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2012 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500
Ken,
A lot of us will be with you in spirit tomorrow as you crank it up.
Thanks for the regular updates -- the detail which you share is really appreciated.
Dennis
Ken Henderson wrote on Mon, 12 March 2012 21:11
> Well, I flunked crank-'er-up today. I'd sort of thought I'd get the
> plumbing and wiring finished today in time to start the engine.
> Didn't happen. As usual, things took a lot longer than I'd expected,
> and I took off on tangents.
>
> For example, It probably took me 1-1/2 hours to reconnect the
> transmission cooler lines to the transmission. When I installed the
> Cad, I re-routed those lines to the right side. They came out with
> the drive train, but were a slight problem, so I didn't remount them
> before installing the engine. Big mistake. Just couldn't get them
> aligned for a long time.
>
> Then, I decided to try to cure the relatively minor exhaust pipe leaks
> at the manifold connections:
>
> Gary Kosier sent me new "bell mouths" to replace my poor locally
> produced ones. A couple of days ago I was discussing that plan with
> my young car nut plumber. He suggest that I machine the manifolds to
> accept the commonly available flanged "donuts", of which I have a bag
> full. Since the manifolds are still on the engine with good Remflex
> gaskets, I don't want to remove them. But, the right side has an
> adapter from the flat manifold to the bell mouth fitting for the
> exhaust pipe -- it was originally a heat riser valve. So, what I did
> was machine the bell mouth side of that small adapter to accept a
> donut. With that done, I think I achieved a good, spring loaded,
> connection.
>
> snip snip ....
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
--
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Germantown, TN
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162848 is a reply to message #162842] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 08:02 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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My friendly tranny fixer has this pump and a tube he stuffs down the dipstick. Slurps it down to maybe a half cup, which means you can tilt the pan substantially before any runs out. His shop floors are epoxied.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode Norris
'76 palm beach
From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500
Sully,
I WOULD NOT reinstall a transmission pan without installing a drain
bung. Don't have one handy? I've never bought one. Just get a nut
to fit the drain plug and turn a step on it. Drill a hole in the
pan the side of the step and braze the nut in place.
Without a drain plug, it's impossible, IMHO, to avoid a red shower.
Ken H.
On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 12:42 AM, wrote:
> ...Wish I had a drain plug bung handy to weld in prior to puting the pan back on.
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162871 is a reply to message #162858] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 12:05 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Larry,
Thanks for the input, even though I'm 'way ahead of that: About 5
years ago I added a temperature sender bung, about where yours is. At
the left rear, I put a drain plug in the bottom of the pan so I don't
have to remove the sender & can get more ATF out. Unfortunately, even
the drain plug leaves a quart or so in the still lower cooler tube
area, which is about 3/4"-1" deeper than a standard pan. Because I
didn't really mean to dump all the ATF from the pan yesterday, I only
drained to waste that above the sender bung. :-(
I'm on lunch break now. When I go back to work, I've got to connect
the H2O hose to the right rear head, refill the antifreeze & ATF, top
off the engine oil, and crank-'er-up -- I hope. :-)
Although I was very careful about cleaning the inside of the engine, I
did not completely disassemble and hot tank it, so I want flush well
it with motor oil: I plan to put about 50-75 miles on the oil that's
in it now (with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil added) before changing
it and the filter to eliminate any serious debris that may be left.
Then we're going to Atlanta next weekend for a friend's birthday
party. After that 200 mile trip I'll do another oil and filter change
before we depart next Tuesday for Shawnee. If the engine fails again,
I seriously doubt that it will be because of residual debris.
Ken H.
On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 10:23 AM, Larry wrote:
>
>
> Ken,
> I've been watching your adventure closely. Sorry I can't be there to help...it just isn't gonna work out this trip. Â Got my own troubles that I'm dealing with.
>
> FWIW. here is what I did with my stock tranny pan for temp sensor and draining. You have to be careful where you drill the hole in the pan making sure that there is adequate room inside the pan for sensor or brazed nut. Â JWID
>
> See this photo and two more after this one.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3851&cat=3382
> --
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162872 is a reply to message #162871] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 12:58 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
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| Ken Henderson wrote on Tue, 13 March 2012 12:05 |
Although I was very careful about cleaning the inside of the engine, I
did not completely disassemble and hot tank it, so I want flush well
it with motor oil: I plan to put about 50-75 miles on the oil that's
in it now (with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil added) before changing
it and the filter to eliminate any serious debris that may be left.
Then we're going to Atlanta next weekend for a friend's birthday
party. After that 200 mile trip I'll do another oil and filter change
before we depart next Tuesday for Shawnee. If the engine fails again,
I seriously doubt that it will be because of residual debris.
Ken H.
|
I think you will be OK, but I guess I would not even go that 50-75 miles on it. That's one to 1 1/2 hours of driving. JMO, but I'd start it and let it idle for 10-15 minutes with no load, using (any brand of 10W30) oil, and shut it off and change it. Do that twice, and then take it for a drive. Just the way I'd do it. At this point, oil is cheap. I've done quick and dirty rebuilds on motors where people didn't have the money to "do it right". Did the rebuild with the block in the car still hooked up to the trans. Put in rings, did a Q&D valve job with seals, buttoned it up and did several quick oil changes to get the debris that washed down into the pan out. Those motors ran a long time...of coarse they were not in a motorhome either...soooo....
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162887 is a reply to message #162872] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 18:15 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I went ahead this afternoon and cranked-'er-up and, despite the fact
that I didn't change any cam/lifters nor combinations, went right into
the cam break-in routine of 2000 rpm for 30 minutes. That all went
fine and the engine sounds good. Maybe I will go ahead and change the
oil before I drive it tomorrow -- after I warm it up again.
Speaking of warm-up: It was pretty warm here today, probably 80*F.
During the engine run, the H20 temperature eventually got up to 202*F.
Then the fan clutch engaged and the temperature dropped back to
198*F, when the fan clutch disengaged. It did that about 8-10 times
during the run. Those are temperatures from the EBL What's Up
Display, which I trust more than my analog gauge (which did agree). I
have no idea what the fan clutch temperature was, but the
engage/disengage temperatures were very consistent. I'd prefer it to
cut in at a little higher temperature, but we don't get to choose.
When I last parked the coach, the main tank was empty and the aux
nearly so because I was considering dropping the tanks for hose
replacement. Therefore it didn't surprise me when the engine quit
just before I was about to shut it down. What did surprise me was
later, after I added 5 gallons of gas, was that the engine wouldn't
start. WUD says the Ignition +12 VDC is coming up for just a second
and then dropping off. Hmmmm... SHE came then to call me to supper,
so troubleshooting that has to wait until tomorrow. Surely can't be
much of a problem, but I can't imagine what offhand.
Ken H.
On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 1:58 PM, Larry wrote:
>
> I think you will be OK, but I guess I would not even go that 50-75 miles on it. Â That's one to 1 1/2 hours of driving. Â JMO, but I'd start it and let it idle for 10-15 minutes with no load, using (any brand of 10W30) oil, and shut it off and change it. Â Do that twice, and then take it for a drive. Just the way I'd do it. Â At this point, oil is cheap. Â I've done quick and dirty rebuilds on motors where people didn't have the money to "do it right". Did the rebuild with the block in the car still hooked up to the trans. Put in rings, did a Q&D valve job with seals, buttoned it up and did several quick oil changes to get the debris that washed down into the pan out. Those motors ran a long time...of coarse they were not in a motorhome either...soooo....
> --
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162889 is a reply to message #162887] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 18:58 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
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| Ken Henderson wrote on Tue, 13 March 2012 18:15 |
I went ahead this afternoon and cranked-'er-up and, despite the fact
that I didn't change any cam/lifters nor combinations, went right into
the cam break-in routine of 2000 rpm for 30 minutes. That all went
fine and the engine sounds good. Maybe I will go ahead and change the
oil before I drive it tomorrow -- after I warm it up again.
Speaking of warm-up: It was pretty warm here today, probably 80*F.
During the engine run, the H20 temperature eventually got up to 202*F.
Then the fan clutch engaged and the temperature dropped back to
198*F, when the fan clutch disengaged. It did that about 8-10 times
during the run. Those are temperatures from the EBL What's Up
Display, which I trust more than my analog gauge (which did agree). I
have no idea what the fan clutch temperature was, but the
engage/disengage temperatures were very consistent. I'd prefer it to
cut in at a little higher temperature, but we don't get to choose.
When I last parked the coach, the main tank was empty and the aux
nearly so because I was considering dropping the tanks for hose
replacement. Therefore it didn't surprise me when the engine quit
just before I was about to shut it down. What did surprise me was
later, after I added 5 gallons of gas, was that the engine wouldn't
start. WUD says the Ignition +12 VDC is coming up for just a second
and then dropping off. Hmmmm... SHE came then to call me to supper,
so troubleshooting that has to wait until tomorrow. Surely can't be
much of a problem, but I can't imagine what offhand.
Ken H.
|
Hum, fan clutch doesn't have much of a range. Mine comes on at 210* and off at 195 or so....but then that's the least of your problems right now.
On mine, I was able to put a jumper between the terminals of the connector at the oil pressure sensor. That keeps the FP running so you can check to see if fuel is reaching the TB. Yes, I found out the hard way that there is power going to the OP switch full time...even with the switch off. Long story but ruined a FP not knowing that.
Keep us posted.
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162890 is a reply to message #162871] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 19:14 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
|
Senior Member |
|
|
1. Cut the filter open and see what it caught. Run a magnet through the chaff and see how much of it is steel/iron.
2. Happy BD to your friend.
3. Tied up the whole weekend? If not, I buy you a sarsaparilla someplace in town.
--johnny
'76 23' trandmode Norris
'76 Palm Beach
________________________________
From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500
Larry,
Thanks for the input, even though I'm 'way ahead of that: About 5
years ago I added a temperature sender bung, about where yours is. At
the left rear, I put a drain plug in the bottom of the pan so I don't
have to remove the sender & can get more ATF out. Unfortunately, even
the drain plug leaves a quart or so in the still lower cooler tube
area, which is about 3/4"-1" deeper than a standard pan. Because I
didn't really mean to dump all the ATF from the pan yesterday, I only
drained to waste that above the sender bung. :-(
I'm on lunch break now. When I go back to work, I've got to connect
the H2O hose to the right rear head, refill the antifreeze & ATF, top
off the engine oil, and crank-'er-up -- I hope. :-)
Although I was very careful about cleaning the inside of the engine, I
did not completely disassemble and hot tank it, so I want flush well
it with motor oil: I plan to put about 50-75 miles on the oil that's
in it now (with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil added) before changing
it and the filter to eliminate any serious debris that may be left.
Then we're going to Atlanta next weekend for a friend's birthday
party. After that 200 mile trip I'll do another oil and filter change
before we depart next Tuesday for Shawnee. If the engine fails again,
I seriously doubt that it will be because of residual debris.
Ken H.
On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 10:23 AM, Larry wrote:
>
>
> Ken,
> I've been watching your adventure closely. Sorry I can't be there to help...it just isn't gonna work out this trip. Got my own troubles that I'm dealing with.
>
> FWIW. here is what I did with my stock tranny pan for temp sensor and draining. You have to be careful where you drill the hole in the pan making sure that there is adequate room inside the pan for sensor or brazed nut. JWID
>
> See this photo and two more after this one.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3851&cat=3382
> --
_______________________________________________
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
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| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162893 is a reply to message #162890] |
Tue, 13 March 2012 19:34 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Johnny,
1. I will cut the filter open. What I expect to find, if anything,
is non-magnetic -- almost all the residual debris will be babbitt
material. If there is ferrous material, it should be caught by the
FilterMag I use on both the engine and transmission external filters.
2. He's OLD -- about a week older'n me!
3. Wish we could get together, but this will be a short up & back;
actually, only to Griffin, but what would that statement mean to
anyone in CA or NZ? :-)
Oh yeah, I've forgotten the species of your big white dogs, but I
discovered that another of our long-time GMCers, in NC, has one.
Unfortunately, he hasn't used his GMC, nor visited here, in 3 years.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 8:14 PM, Johnny Bridges <jhbridges@ymail.com> wrote:
> 1. Cut the filter open and see what it caught. Run a magnet through the chaff and see how much of it is steel/iron.
> 2. Happy BD to your friend.
> 3. Tied up the whole weekend? If not, I buy you a sarsaparilla someplace in town.
>
> --johnny
> '76 23' trandmode Norris
> '76 Palm Beach
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 1:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500
>
> Larry,
>
> Thanks for the input, even though I'm 'way ahead of that:Â About 5
> years ago I added a temperature sender bung, about where yours is. At
> the left rear, I put a drain plug in the bottom of the pan so I don't
> have to remove the sender & can get more ATF out. Unfortunately, even
> the drain plug leaves a quart or so in the still lower cooler tube
> area, which is about 3/4"-1" deeper than a standard pan. Because I
> didn't really mean to dump all the ATF from the pan yesterday, I only
> drained to waste that above the sender bung. :-(
>
> I'm on lunch break now. When I go back to work, I've got to connect
> the H2O hose to the right rear head, refill the antifreeze & ATF, top
> off the engine oil, and crank-'er-up -- I hope. :-)
>
> Although I was very careful about cleaning the inside of the engine, I
> did not completely disassemble and hot tank it, so I want flush well
> it with motor oil:Â I plan to put about 50-75 miles on the oil that's
> in it now (with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil added) before changing
> it and the filter to eliminate any serious debris that may be left.
> Then we're going to Atlanta next weekend for a friend's birthday
> party. After that 200 mile trip I'll do another oil and filter change
> before we depart next Tuesday for Shawnee. If the engine fails again,
> I seriously doubt that it will be because of residual debris.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 10:23 AM, Larry wrote:
>>
>>
>> Ken,
>> I've been watching your adventure closely. Sorry I can't be there to help...it just isn't gonna work out this trip. Â Got my own troubles that I'm dealing with.
>>
>> FWIW. here is what I did with my stock tranny pan for temp sensor and draining. You have to be careful where you drill the hole in the pan making sure that there is adequate room inside the pan for sensor or brazed nut. Â JWID
>>
>> See this photo and two more after this one.
>>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3851&cat=3382
>> --
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162942 is a reply to message #162893] |
Wed, 14 March 2012 01:23 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Ken,
how did the oil pressure compare after warm up?
Glad to see you got it running.
I have yet to fab up a new waste gate tube.
On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 5:34 PM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Johnny,
>
> 1. Â I will cut the filter open. Â What I expect to find, if anything,
> is non-magnetic -- almost all the residual debris will be babbitt
> material. Â If there is ferrous material, it should be caught by the
> FilterMag I use on both the engine and transmission external filters.
>
> 2. Â He's OLD -- about a week older'n me!
>
> 3. Â Wish we could get together, but this will be a short up & back;
> actually, only to Griffin, but what would that statement mean to
> anyone in CA or NZ? Â :-)
>
> Oh yeah, I've forgotten the species of your big white dogs, but I
> discovered that another of our long-time GMCers, in NC, has one.
> Unfortunately, he hasn't used his GMC, nor visited here, in 3 years.
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 8:14 PM, Johnny Bridges <jhbridges@ymail.com> wrote:
>> 1. Cut the filter open and see what it caught. Run a magnet through the chaff and see how much of it is steel/iron.
>> 2. Happy BD to your friend.
>> 3. Tied up the whole weekend? If not, I buy you a sarsaparilla someplace in town.
>>
>> --johnny
>> '76 23' trandmode Norris
>> '76 Palm Beach
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
>> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 1:05 PM
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500
>>
>> Larry,
>>
>> Thanks for the input, even though I'm 'way ahead of that:Â About 5
>> years ago I added a temperature sender bung, about where yours is. At
>> the left rear, I put a drain plug in the bottom of the pan so I don't
>> have to remove the sender & can get more ATF out. Unfortunately, even
>> the drain plug leaves a quart or so in the still lower cooler tube
>> area, which is about 3/4"-1" deeper than a standard pan. Because I
>> didn't really mean to dump all the ATF from the pan yesterday, I only
>> drained to waste that above the sender bung. :-(
>>
>> I'm on lunch break now. When I go back to work, I've got to connect
>> the H2O hose to the right rear head, refill the antifreeze & ATF, top
>> off the engine oil, and crank-'er-up -- I hope. :-)
>>
>> Although I was very careful about cleaning the inside of the engine, I
>> did not completely disassemble and hot tank it, so I want flush well
>> it with motor oil:Â I plan to put about 50-75 miles on the oil that's
>> in it now (with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil added) before changing
>> it and the filter to eliminate any serious debris that may be left.
>> Then we're going to Atlanta next weekend for a friend's birthday
>> party. After that 200 mile trip I'll do another oil and filter change
>> before we depart next Tuesday for Shawnee. If the engine fails again,
>> I seriously doubt that it will be because of residual debris.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 10:23 AM, Larry wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Ken,
>>> I've been watching your adventure closely. Sorry I can't be there to help...it just isn't gonna work out this trip. Â Got my own troubles that I'm dealing with.
>>>
>>> FWIW. here is what I did with my stock tranny pan for temp sensor and draining. You have to be careful where you drill the hole in the pan making sure that there is adequate room inside the pan for sensor or brazed nut. Â JWID
>>>
>>> See this photo and two more after this one.
>>>
>>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3851&cat=3382
>>> --
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #162949 is a reply to message #162942] |
Wed, 14 March 2012 07:28 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Jim,
The cold oil pressure pegged at 80 psi -- in line with that I'd seen
during pre-lube. At 190*F, it was 65 psi. Well above the 30-35 I had
before. I don't recall whether I mentioned here the fact that I was
surprised by the pre-lube pressure and compared the springs in the two
pumps. The new one's was a little longer and stronger, despite being
the same wire diameter. We'll see how this holds up.
You'd better get busy, else Frank's gonna win again. If I don't hear
better news RIGHT away, I'm going to withdraw my offer to cover part
of the bet!
Ken H.
On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 2:23 AM, Jim Kanomata wrote:
> Ken,
> Â how did the oil pressure compare after warm up?
> Glad to see you got it running.
> I have yet to fab up a new waste gate tube.
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #163015 is a reply to message #162949] |
Wed, 14 March 2012 21:29 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Well, I flunked crank-er'-up still again.
I got sort of a late start, but it didn't take long to find out why
the engine wouldn't start: the IGN 10A CB for the EFI was tripping a
couple of seconds after turning the key on -- WUD was very helpful in
discovering that. After trying everything else, I found that the VSS
was shorting the IGN. With it disconnected, the engine still wouldn't
fire. The fuel spray looked a little strange to me, so I added more
gas to the tanks with no improvement. A spark indicator showed
suspiciously weak spark. After too much trying, it finally fired off
and ran for a couple of minutes, then died again. After too much more
trying, it fired off and ran badly for a minute or so before
backfiring and dying again.
After that, it never ran again. During the first short run, I'd begun
to try to set the timing by light. I got it running smoother, but
didn't get it locked down before the engine died. After the second
run I decided to try to at least get the timing closer by light-timing
while cranking. The timing light would only flash intermittently.
After a careful static re-time, I tried again to use the light -- no
flashee.
By the time I reached the conclusion Burton & others have been jumping
up & down trying to tell me, it was too late for me to go get a new
module. Only after I drug my exhausted butt to the shower and supper
did I remember that the Olds in the shop has a 7-pin module in it.
Tomorrow.
I'm getting too old for this foolishness. I just want it to RUN, not
teach me Murphy's Law. :-)
Ken H.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Reviving the Cad 500 [message #163029 is a reply to message #163015] |
Thu, 15 March 2012 01:22 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Ken,
Had to run up to Oregon to do Hepa filter certification for the VA
Hospital and at the same time exchange RandyGrubb's BLASTOLENE final
ratio from the 3.70 to a 3.55 as his Super Coach is only 6-7K lbs in
weight.
I have few more things to do before I fire up the 540.
Believe it or not, I'm planning to leave next Wed evening.
One way or another, I will be there in Shawnee.
I have Rob Muller and John Sharp standing by to pick me up at Houston
Airport and Dan Gregg at Oklahoma city just in case I have failer.
Frank Jenkins will be smiling like Possum eating S--T should I not
pull in with my coach. Now, I would have little more sympathy and not
do the Possum thing.
I learned that expression during my 5 years at OU in Norman, also
learned a lot about football to.
Hope you fix that weak ignition.
On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 7:29 PM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Well, I flunked crank-er'-up still again.
>
> I got sort of a late start, but it didn't take long to find out why
> the engine wouldn't start: the IGN 10A CB for the EFI was tripping a
> couple of seconds after turning the key on -- WUD was very helpful in
> discovering that. Â After trying everything else, I found that the VSS
> was shorting the IGN. Â With it disconnected, the engine still wouldn't
> fire. Â The fuel spray looked a little strange to me, so I added more
> gas to the tanks with no improvement. Â A spark indicator showed
> suspiciously weak spark. Â After too much trying, it finally fired off
> and ran for a couple of minutes, then died again. Â After too much more
> trying, it fired off and ran badly for a minute or so before
> backfiring and dying again.
>
> After that, it never ran again. Â During the first short run, I'd begun
> to try to set the timing by light. Â I got it running smoother, but
> didn't get it locked down before the engine died. Â After the second
> run I decided to try to at least get the timing closer by light-timing
> while cranking. Â The timing light would only flash intermittently.
> After a careful static re-time, I tried again to use the light -- no
> flashee.
>
> By the time I reached the conclusion Burton & others have been jumping
> up & down trying to tell me, it was too late for me to go get a new
> module. Â Only after I drug my exhausted butt to the shower and supper
> did I remember that the Olds in the shop has a 7-pin module in it.
> Tomorrow.
>
> I'm getting too old for this foolishness. Â I just want it to RUN, not
> teach me Murphy's Law. :-)
>
> Ken H.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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