| Re: [GMCnet] Maiden Voyage-- Key Cylinder [message #61881 is a reply to message #60073] |
Mon, 26 October 2009 23:48   |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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Gordon,
The lock cylinder you sent me arrived in this afternoons mail! Thank
you for your kind generosity. I attempted to send the payment to you
last week, however the Post Office was snarky about my packaging. It
went out in the mail this morning.
I'm glad to have helped you, in some small way, clean out your
garage. We stopped at Kenworth shops, Peterbuilt shops, and
locksmiths. These things seem to be purpose built and the only other
solution is to replace the entire latch! That's not too tough to do,
but why bother when I can exploit your kindness :~)
I can't imagine that I'm the first person you've helped like this,
and I want to sincerely thank you for your help. My wife will sleep
better knowing that our coach is protected by this massive lock
cylinder!
Larry Davick
The Mystery Machine
On Oct 14, 2009, at 9:34 AM, Gordon wrote:
> Larry;
> I saw the latch assembly was in my top basket of parts, so it was easy
> to get at. I pulled the "C" clip, took out the cylinder and have it
> ready to go. I will ship it this afternoon.
> Gordon
>
> Larry Davick wrote:
>> The one thing that I found most valuable was my iPhone. Having the
>> Internet in my pocket really made it easy to find stuff along the
>> way.
>>
>> Oh, and two really good buddies who can do anything helped too!
>>
>> Larry Davick
>> The Mystery Machine
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] Maiden Voyage [message #61890 is a reply to message #60686] |
Tue, 27 October 2009 02:07 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Gary Casey wrote on Mon, 19 October 2009 13:26 |
Very informative, Ken. Mine doesn't track very well and wanders more than I would like.
1. My rear seems to be the right height (on the coach, the coach  . The front is almost an inch high. Not good?
2. I set the tire pressure at 60 on my 23. The ride is harsh enough. Can you gain by a differential pressure front/middle/rear?
3. Slip joint is loose. The fix?
4. Steering joints seem pretty good. Steering gear, though, is loose.
5. Okay, okay, I'll admit it - I tweeked the steering gear, but just a little, honest. I agree, it needs to be set up correctly.
6. Haven't even looked at the alignment. I'm pretty sure one rear wheel is not tracking the others. Not good, I'll bet, huh?
But all that will have to wait until the engine is back together.
Gary
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I sorry about the late response. I just noticed your posting. I do not look at everything on GMCnet so I missed yours.
Item 1
Please check you rear ride height an adjust if necessary as per the manual. The round hole that you measure to on the left side is almost impossible to get to because the Onan mount is in the way. While at Jim K's shop last year I noticed that his guys cut some simple wood blocks that they slide under the frame on every coach that goes on his 4 post lift. It is a simple procedure and in my opinion is the easy way to check ride height. Just yourself a couple of pieces of 1x2 or 1x3.
Here are the sizes to the frame at the point where the measurement holes are located:
Front: 10 1/8"
Rear 8 7/16"
Some people measure to the bottom of the rear wheel cut out. This will work only after you have determined the correct frame to ground measurement. The height of the cutout varies based on the condition or presence of the body isolators. If you will measure to the frame and get it right and then measure to your wheel cut out distance, you can use that for future measurements. I do not use this measurement myself but I believe the average distance there is around 33 inches.
Item 2
I do not know the appropriate pressure on a 23. Ken Henderson and Rick Denney both have 23s and would be a good source for that information.
Item 3
The slip joint is worn due to lack of grease and water getting into that joint. The correct way to fix this is to replace it since the blue stuff on the shaft has worn away. After replacement, grease it and cover it with a boot. Jim K., Dave Lensi and probably Jim B. have rebuilt slip joints. They are not cheap. Jim K. and Bert and Faye Curtis have the boots.
A cheaper way that I did to fix this is to insert some shims into the joint. I do not know if this is a permanent fix or how long it will last. I have had this installed for about 6 years and about 30,000 miles.
I cut some brass shim strips about 1/4 inch wide and about 2 inches long. I tried various thicknesses until I found one that took out all of the rotational play. Simply slip the strips into the coupling between the shaft and the collar and fold the excess over the top. I secured them with a cable tie. I found that .005 was the thickest I could get into mine. So I used 3 .005 shims in the three of the splines. Your thickness will vary based on the amount of wear you have. Be sure to grease the coupling well and cover it with a boot to keep the water out.
I did notice on my last 2500 mile trip to Pueblo that after 30,000 miles I have a slight amount of rotational play again. It is not objectionable but it is there. I have not looked at it yet so I do not at this time know if the shims have worn or what the cause is.
Item 5
On the rear wheel, I straightened mine with a porta-power pressed against a reinforcement plate placed against the frame. You can check the parallelism or straightness with a long straight edge placed across the two wheels. I bought a 5 or 6 foot long aluminum ruler from Menards for less than $10.00 to check mine. Depending on the type of wheels you have you might have to remove them and check across the brake drums. It will be very obvious if one of them is bent. It is normally the middle wheel on the right side that gets bent in due to someone hitting a curb.
HTH
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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