I have a 76 Palm Beach with 2 ft stretch behind rear wheels. Factory original type brakes but former owner had made a lot of add ons that we couldn't figure out so we ripped them out and went back to factory original Bought coach last April and had it delivered to Jim Bounds. Jim went over the entire coach and did basics and upgrades to interior. Replaced brakes including wheel cylinders, hoses ,shoes, master Cylinder, proportioning valve, and installed vacuum storage pipe. Drove from Florida to NJ and the brakes were getting lower all the way. They were never really very high and I never could lock up wheels in rear like my 78 Royale did. At home I replaced all the brake shoes again, hardware, new 80mm calipers, wheel bearings, and installed new sensitized booster. Checked rod on booster for proper length. Bled brakes numerous time, pressure , gravity, reverse and vacuum. Replace proportioning valve with original factory steel unit from brass. Replaced the master cylinder again. Replaced master cylinder again with P-30 (more volume). Have brake pedal when engine is off, goes down to within 1" of floor when engine starts. Hardly any rear brakes when I try them. Brought coach to Ken Frey. He fixed a few of my screws but now he is replacing booster again with a replacement that Jim Bounds kindly sent him on my behalf. I bought new stainless lines from upstate NY (can't remember name) but haven't put them in yet because we would have to start the bleeding process all over again. At http://www.henry-davis.com/GMC/Sandy/ I found a similar issue that was discussed under brakes in October 2 1998 by Poise but his original problem was with an Eaton line failure. Everything has been replaced twice, all the experts have been called to discuss, Bounds, Sirum, Golby, Applied, Frey. ATE DOT 4 fluid getting expensive to bleed. ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEA? Next step is to rip all the drum brakes off!

Jon Darcy