| Re: [GMCnet] Yandina combiner cycles [message #328341] |
Wed, 17 January 2018 10:36  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Ken, I suspect that the reason many coach engine batteries do not stay
charged well in long term storage is that SOMEWHERE in the coaches history,
SOMEONE has wired accessories into the engine battery that slowly drains
them. Modern DIN radios with electronic preset frequencies and power amps
are a frequent offender, as are charging docks for remote controls, GPS
navigation stuff, etc. My 78 Royale, which is bone stock, can sit for 2 to
3 months and still start on the engine battery. Just the Isolator, no
combiner. I do leave the coach plugged in, as I leave a small heater
running inside to keep it from freezing water pipes, etc. I leave the
Refrigerator on all the time as well. Here in Oregon, we use our coach
pretty much year round for rallies and camping. I replaced the old buzz box
converter after it toasted the first set of 6 volt T-105 Trojans I had. I
now have a smart charger Progressive Dynamics converter. It came with the
"charge wizard" as an accessory. I also replaced the toggle breaker with an
automatic transfer switch so I don't have to get down on my knees between
the beds to switch the toggle breaker when I go from generator to shore
power. The transfer switch has a timed delay that senses when the generator
voltage and frequency is stable before it switches over, a good feature if
you have a cranky generator.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
On Jan 17, 2018 8:14 AM, "Ken Burton" wrote:
I saw that with another coach with a Yandina combiner installed. You hit on
the problem exactly. The owner installed a new Yandina a few weeks later
and it did the same thing.
When the PD drops to maintenance mode the output voltage drops to 13.2 to
13.3. Unfortunately that is also the switching point for the Yandina so it
drops in and out. Neither the PD or the Yandina are adjustable so you are
stuck. The reason for the delay is when the PD drops down there is a
surface charge left on one or both of the batteries. It takes a while for
it to bleed off and stabilize at the new 13.2 voltage. There is also a
switching delay built into the Yandina.
If you want to spend more money, you might try a different brand of
combiner to see if it switches at a different voltage.
Since you already have the combiner installed, install the manual switch to
it and leave it turned on when you need want it combined. Make the switch
one with an internal LED and it will remind you to turn it off when not
needed. Those switches are $5.00 at Auto Zone.
There is really no reason to combine to the engine battery while parked as
there is nothing to drain it unless you leave the car radio or front
cockpit lights turned on. If you are going to long term park the coach
for months then a $1.00 combiner might be used. It is my contention that
combining and charging an already fully charged engine battery while
camping for days or weeks is simply over charging it and shortens it life.
My
group 24 engine battery is in it's 10 year and still going strong.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Yandina combiner cycles [message #328342 is a reply to message #328341] |
Wed, 17 January 2018 11:03  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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James Hupy wrote on Wed, 17 January 2018 10:36Ken, I suspect that the reason many coach engine batteries do not stay
charged well in long term storage is that SOMEWHERE in the coaches history,
SOMEONE has wired accessories into the engine battery that slowly drains
them. Modern DIN radios with electronic preset frequencies and power amps
are a frequent offender, as are charging docks for remote controls, GPS
navigation stuff, etc. My 78 Royale, which is bone stock, can sit for 2 to
3 months and still start on the engine battery. Just the Isolator, no
combiner. I do leave the coach plugged in, as I leave a small heater
running inside to keep it from freezing water pipes, etc. I leave the
Refrigerator on all the time as well. Here in Oregon, we use our coach
pretty much year round for rallies and camping. I replaced the old buzz box
converter after it toasted the first set of 6 volt T-105 Trojans I had. I
now have a smart charger Progressive Dynamics converter. It came with the
"charge wizard" as an accessory. I also replaced the toggle breaker with an
automatic transfer switch so I don't have to get down on my knees between
the beds to switch the toggle breaker when I go from generator to shore
power. The transfer switch has a timed delay that senses when the generator
voltage and frequency is stable before it switches over, a good feature if
you have a cranky generator.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
I do not disagree with any of that.
The battery drain caused by those added accessories needs be taken into account if they are going to be powered when the engine and alternator are off. Things like aftermarket radios can easily be powered off of the house system. Amps and GPS etc. should be powered off of an ignition switched source or moved to the house system.
The GM design spec on modern vehicles is there must be less than 20 ma. drain from the battery when the vehicle is turned off. They have not only that audio and other electronic stuff but, a Body computer to keep active. They have only one starting battery to use and still get the job done. We are lucky to have a second high capacity deep cycle battery to use and that is where that stuff ought to be getting power if they are gong to use it when parked. The engine battery has one primary purpose. That is starting the vehicle. When people add other stuff that draws on it they suffer the consequences if not done correctly.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Yandina combiner cycles [message #328346 is a reply to message #328342] |
Wed, 17 January 2018 11:27 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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When I installed a new radio in my GMC, I wired it directly to the upfront house battery. When I added an additional 12v outlet and 12v power pole outlets, these also went to the house battery. All fused to a new fuse panel.
In my GMC, engine battery started engine period.
For items that I thought should be turned on when the ignition is in the on position, I used the white wire from the heater block to engage a relay that fed an addition fuse block that provided power for the JC4 and Ken Henderson's wonderful electric wipers.
Tom
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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